http://www.fashionqanda.com/runway/nomia-mbfw-new-york-spring-summer-2012.html
Fashion Q + A
Runway
September 14, 2011
Yara Flynn Conjures Visions of
O’Keefe and the Southwest, but Does Not Translate Their Beauty into Her
CollectionSimple aesthetics call for impeccable
fit and detail. Yara Flynn’s Nomia SS/12 simple schemed collection neglects cuts
for the female form, and focuses on unsightly extras.
Swoops and
folds looked like strokes of Georgia
O’Keeffe’s paintbrush on a silk, canyon-dust
wrap skirt. O’Keeffe and the Southwest
dueled as inspiration for Yara Flynn’s Nomia spring 2012
collection, which manifested itself in rouges, earthy browns, vermillion and
powder sky blue. Although the inspirations offer a great wellspring of beauty,
consideration to the female
form proved to be the true indicator of
designing beautiful clothes. Aside from a pleasing use of color, in Flynn’s case
this season, creative enthusiasm translated into off putting constructions that were at best puzzling, and at worst
unbecoming.
The fabric had an uneasy quality, hanging off strange
diagonal necklines, or creating wrinkles in stiff, unflattering dresses. The
female form was neither enhanced nor embraced on most looks, and
bizarre add ons took shape, such as a gnarly piece of sheer fabric, peaking out
of a slanted-cut tee shirt, or an orange dress that looked like it was breaking
out in lesions with haphazard, besetting dips and peaks.
Nomia
exhibited a lovely print of purple, orange, pink and red, reminiscent of western
canyons, but she added the pattern as strange accents in odd shapes to red and
white dresses and tops. It was successfully executed, however, on a
short leather dress as a pattern block among segments of red, beige and white,
all sectioned off with a thick white strap that made its way diagonally
across the shoulder. It would have been nice to see this design used more often
and more effectively. Pants came in refreshing colors, in maroon and a gorgeous
aqua, but were too loose and heavy with fabric. As color was Flynn’s
strength, a simple black tee and white sports jacket created a pleasing, yet
simple, color palette with the maroon pants.
The entire collection had a
simple quality to it, but for an austere approach, fit is crucial. The clean
aesthetics only magnified the strange details Flynn added. The colors worked,
but just like the inspirations, they are lost on clothes women
themselves cannot feel beautiful wearing.
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